How to Look After Your Snowboard — Board Care Guide
Your snowboard is an investment, and a little regular care goes a long way. A looked-after board rides faster, feels sharper and lasts years longer than one that gets ignored between trips. Here's everything you need to know to keep yours running — day to day, end of season, and pre-season.
Waxing — The Most Neglected Part of Board Care
Most riders don't wax nearly enough. A dry base is a slow base, and it's also a damaged one — an unwaxed board absorbs moisture, oxidises and degrades from the inside out over time.
As a general rule, wax every 3–5 days of riding. If your base is looking pale, chalky or has white patches along the edges, it needed waxing yesterday. Don't wait until it feels slow — by that point the base has already been drying out.
How to wax
Set your iron to a steady, moderate temperature (around 120–130°C for most all-temp waxes). Drip melted wax across the base from nose to tail, then spread it evenly with the iron — keep the iron moving, never let it sit still. Let the wax cool for at least 30 minutes, then scrape from nose to tail with a plastic scraper until no more comes off. Finish with a nylon brush to open up the base structure. The wax that makes you fast is the wax absorbed into the base, not the layer sitting on top — don't skip the scrape.
Hot wax always outperforms rub-on wax. Rubbing wax on at the mountain is better than nothing, but it's not a substitute for a proper hot wax. For the full step-by-step, see our how to wax your snowboard guide, or bring your board into the store and we'll hot wax it for you.
Edges — Dry Them Every Single Day
This is the easiest and most ignored piece of maintenance there is. After every day on the mountain, wipe your edges down with a dry cloth before you put your board away. That's it. Takes 30 seconds and prevents rust forming overnight.
A note on oxidation
Surface rust — the orange-brown discolouration you sometimes see on edges — is normal and not the end of the world. It doesn't mean your board is ruined. A gummy stone run lightly along the edge removes surface oxidation and leaves a clean, smooth edge again. Gummy stones are cheap — keep one in your bag.
If rust has built up more significantly, a diamond stone followed by a gummy stone will sort it out, or bring it in and we'll tune it up for you.
Sharp edges give you grip on hardpack and ice — dull edges feel vague and unpredictable, especially when the mountain firms up. If your carves feel like they're washing out, your edges likely need attention.
During the Season — Day to Day
- After every ride: Wipe down the base and edges with a dry cloth. Don't put it away wet.
- Check your binding screws at the start of each trip. Vibration and temperature changes loosen screws over a season — a loose binding affects control and can damage the insert threads over time.
- Don't lean your board on its edge for long periods — this can stress the edge. Store it flat or standing upright on its tail.
- Don't rest the edge of your board on your boot on the chairlift. A surprisingly common way to damage boot buckles and put unnecessary pressure on your edges.
- Base damage (gouges, core shots): Small scratches are normal. Deep gouges that expose the core need a P-Tex repair — bring it in before it gets worse and lets moisture in.
End of Season Storage
This is the most important wax you'll ever apply. At the end of the season, give your board a proper hot wax and then — don't scrape it. Leave a thick coat of wax sitting on the base, unscraped, for the entire off-season. This is a storage wax, and it seals the base against oxidation and drying out over summer.
Before you wax for storage, inspect the base for any gouges or damage and get those repaired first. Check your edges for rust and run a gummy stone along them if needed.
Store your board in a cool, dry place — out of direct sunlight and away from extreme temperature swings. A hot roof space or a damp garage are the two worst places for a board. A board bag helps protect the edges and topsheet from knocks and scratches.
Loosen your binding straps before storing — leaving them cranked tight all summer can cause the straps to develop a permanent crease or lose elasticity.
Pre-Season Prep
When the season rolls around again, pull the board out and give it the once-over before your first trip:
- Scrape and brush the storage wax off — properly, with a scraper and nylon brush.
- Inspect the base for any new damage, dry patches or delamination.
- Check the edges for rust — a gummy stone will handle any surface oxidation.
- Apply a fresh hot wax before your first ride. Don't head up on bare storage wax — it's thick, unstructured and slow.
- Check all binding screws and re-set your stance if needed.
If you haven't had your board tuned professionally in a season or two, pre-season is the right time. A machine tune flattens the base, sharpens and bevels the edges, and gives you a fresh platform to start the year on. Bring it in and we'll sort it out.
When to Get a Professional Tune
Some things are worth leaving to us:
- Base grinding (to flatten a convex or concave base)
- Deep P-Tex repairs and base welds
- Full edge bevel and sharpen
- Major rust removal
- Delamination assessment and repair
Frosty runs our in-house workshop seven days a week at our Richmond store — waxing, tuning and repairs done properly. Drop your board in and we'll let you know what it needs.
Shop: Snowboard Wax · Tuning Kits · Tuning Tools
Related: How to Wax Your Snowboard · Waxing & Tuning Service