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Short answer: 40 to 80km in normal Melbourne riding. A lighter rider on flat paths in low assist will beat that. A heavier rider on hills using the throttle will halve it.
That spread is the honest answer, and it's why the number on the box is never the number you get.
Why the advertised range is always optimistic
Manufacturer range figures aren't dishonest, they're just measured in conditions nobody rides in. Flat ground, light rider, lowest assist level, no wind, no stopping, mild weather, brand new battery.
Real riding is hills, traffic lights, headwinds, a backpack, and whatever assist level feels good at the time.
Treat the advertised number as a ceiling, not a promise. Plan on half to two thirds of it and you'll rarely be caught out.
The maths, which is simpler than you'd think
Range comes down to one sum:
Battery watt-hours ÷ watt-hours used per kilometre = range
Your battery's watt-hours are volts multiplied by amp-hours. A 48V 20Ah battery holds 960Wh. A 52V 25Ah holds 1,300Wh.
Then it's about how hard you make the motor work per kilometre:
| How you ride | Roughly |
|---|---|
| Flat, low assist, no rush | 12 to 16 Wh per km |
| Normal mixed riding | 16 to 22 Wh per km |
| Hills, throttle, cargo or two-up | 25 to 35 Wh per km |
So a 960Wh battery ridden gently gets you 60 to 80km. The same battery, same bike, ridden hard with a passenger on hills, gets you closer to 30.
Same bike. Same battery. Half the range. That's the bit most people don't expect.
What's in the bikes we sell
| Bike | Battery | Watt-hours |
|---|---|---|
| Fatboy DNA V3 | 48V 15Ah Samsung | 720Wh |
| Fatboy Scrambler / Harlem V3 Performance | 48V 20Ah Samsung | 960Wh |
| Fatboy Scrambler / Harlem V3 Ultra | 52V 20Ah Samsung | 1,040Wh |
| Fatboy Bagus V3 Performance | 48V 25Ah Samsung | 1,200Wh |
| Fatboy Bagus V3 Ultra | 52V 25Ah Samsung | 1,300Wh |
| FlightRisk FR777 | 52V 25Ah + 52V 15Ah | 2,080Wh combined |
The Bagus carries about 25 per cent more battery than the Scrambler and Harlem, which is the main reason to pick it. The FR777 runs two batteries because it also runs two motors, so the extra capacity is doing more work than the number suggests.
What actually eats your range
In order of how much they matter. This order surprises people, because the things riders worry about are usually near the bottom.
1. Assist level and throttle
The biggest one by a long way. Riding in eco or PAS 1 to 2 on flat ground can roughly double your range compared to sitting in the top assist level. Constant high assist costs 30 to 50 per cent.
Throttle is worse again, because you're contributing nothing. Every kilometre on throttle is a kilometre the battery pays for on its own.
2. Hills
Climbing takes real energy and you don't get much back coming down. A hilly route costs 30 to 50 per cent compared to the same distance on the flat. Melbourne is broadly flat but has short steep sections everywhere, and each one draws more than a kilometre of flat ground.
If you live somewhere like Kew or Ivanhoe, your range will simply be lower than someone doing the same distance along Beach Road, and there's nothing wrong with your bike.
3. Rider and cargo weight
A 90kg rider draws noticeably more than a 70kg rider on the same bike and route. It matters most on hills and at every set of lights, because accelerating a heavy bike from a standstill is where the energy goes. Fat tyre e-bikes are already 30kg plus before you get on.
4. Speed
Air resistance climbs sharply the faster you go. Past about 25km/h it starts to bite hard, and riding at 32 rather than 24 burns 30 to 40 per cent more energy for the same distance. If range is tight on your commute, backing off a few km/h extends it meaningfully.
5. Wind
A decent headwind feels like a hill that never ends, and it can cost 10 to 20 per cent on exposed routes. Beach Road on a windy day is the obvious local example.
6. Cold
Lithium batteries deliver less in the cold. A Melbourne winter can cost 10 to 20 per cent compared to summer, and that's normal rather than a fault.
7. Tyre pressure
Real, but smaller than people think, at around five to ten per cent. It's last on this list for impact and first for ease, because it's free and takes two minutes. See our tyre pressure guide for the numbers.
Real-world range in Melbourne conditions
Based on what we see from customers riding these bikes, on a 960Wh battery:
- 65 to 75kg rider, flat paths, low to mid assist: 60 to 80km
- 65 to 75kg rider, mixed terrain with hills: 45 to 60km
- 80 to 95kg rider, flat paths: 45 to 60km
- 80 to 95kg rider, mixed terrain: 35 to 50km
- 95kg plus, mixed terrain, mid to high assist: 30 to 45km
Scale up or down for a bigger or smaller battery using the table above. A 1,300Wh Bagus Ultra gets roughly a third more than these numbers. A 720Wh DNA gets about a quarter less.
How to plan a commute
Take the real-world estimate for your weight and terrain, halve it for a return trip, and make sure your one-way distance sits inside that with 20 per cent to spare.
Example: 80kg rider, mixed Melbourne terrain, mid assist. Estimate 45 to 60km. Half the conservative end is 22km each way. If your commute is under 20km each way and you charge at home, you're covered with room left.
If you can charge at work, your effective range doubles. A removable battery makes that easy, and Fatboy offer it across the main models.
What that means for actual Melbourne rides
- Richmond to the CBD and back, around 8km, uses well under a tenth of a 960Wh battery. A fortnight of commutes on one charge.
- The Capital City Trail, 29km flat loop, comfortably one charge with plenty left.
- Richmond to St Kilda and back along the river, roughly 25km, easy on one charge.
- A full day on Beach Road, 60km plus with wind, is where you'd start thinking about assist levels.
For commuting and errands, range is almost never the problem. It becomes a question on long days, carrying a passenger, or riding somewhere hilly.
How to get more out of a charge
Use less assist. The single biggest lever. Ride in PAS 1 or 2 on the flat and save high assist for climbs.
Keep your speed sensible. Sitting on 32km/h costs far more than sitting on 24.
Pump your tyres. Monthly. Free range.
Don't accelerate hard from every light. Sudden bursts cost more than a steady roll-on.
Keep the battery healthy. Store it indoors, don't leave it flat for months, don't leave it in a hot car. Our battery care guide covers this properly.
Frequently asked questions
How far can a fat tyre e-bike go on one charge? Typically 40 to 80km. A lighter rider on flat paths in low assist can push past 80km, while a heavier rider on hills using throttle can be under 35km.
How do I calculate my e-bike's range? Multiply battery voltage by amp-hours to get watt-hours, then divide by 16 to 22 watt-hours per kilometre for normal riding. A 48V 20Ah battery is 960Wh, so roughly 45 to 60km.
Why is my e-bike range less than advertised? Advertised figures are measured on flat ground with a light rider on the lowest assist setting and no wind. Half to two thirds of the advertised number is realistic.
What affects e-bike range the most? Assist level and throttle use, then hills, then speed. Low assist on flat ground can roughly double your range compared to high assist.
Does cold weather reduce e-bike range? Yes. Lithium batteries deliver less in the cold, so expect 10 to 20 per cent less in a Melbourne winter. It's normal, not a fault.
Which fat tyre e-bike has the most range? Of the bikes we stock, the FlightRisk FR777 with its dual battery setup at 2,080Wh combined, then the Fatboy Bagus V3 with the extended 25Ah pack.
Not sure which one suits your riding?
Come into Richmond and tell us what your rides actually look like — distance, hills, whether you carry a passenger — and we'll tell you which battery you need rather than selling you the biggest one. Book a demo ride and see for yourself.
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435A Bridge Rd, Richmond VIC 3121 | 03 9421 2293
Frequently Asked Questions
In real-world Melbourne conditions, a 65 to 75kg rider on flat paths in ECO or MID assist can expect 60 to 80km. An 80 to 95kg rider on mixed terrain with some hills will see 35 to 50km. Manufacturer range figures are calculated under best-case conditions — plan conservatively using these real-world estimates.
Rider weight is the single biggest variable. A 90kg rider draws significantly more battery than a 70kg rider on the same bike and route. Assist level also matters enormously — the difference between ECO and maximum assist can be 40 to 50% of your total range. Terrain, speed and temperature all affect range further.
Take the real-world range estimate for your weight and terrain, divide by two for a return trip, and make sure your commute distance sits inside that number with 20% buffer remaining. If you can charge at work, your effective range doubles — you are only planning for one way at a time.
Yes. Lithium batteries perform less efficiently in cold weather. Melbourne winters can reduce effective range by 10 to 20% compared to summer. Not dramatic enough to change which bike you buy, but worth knowing when planning winter commutes. Never charge a cold battery — let it come to room temperature first.
Some models do. Fatboy and Ampd Brothers both offer removable batteries on their main models. If your commute is at the edge of your range, a removable battery lets you charge at your desk and ride home on a full battery. Confirm on the specific model you are buying — not every configuration in a range has a removable pack.
For riders over 95kg on mixed Melbourne terrain in mid to high assist, expect 30 to 45km per charge. On flat paths in ECO mode you will see more. Subtract 20 to 25% from any manufacturer range figure as a starting planning point. Bikes with larger batteries or removable packs are worth considering if your commute is at the longer end.
