The Australian snow season starts in June. Every year, riders arrive at Falls Creek or Mt Buller on opening weekend with gear that's been sitting in a bag since September. Every year, some of them spend their first morning dealing with problems that twenty minutes in a workshop could have prevented.
Here's the pre-season checklist we run through with customers at Twelve Board Store in May and June. Do all of this before you leave Melbourne.
Board
Base inspection: lay the board base-up and look along the length under good light. You're checking for gouges, core shots (damage deep enough to see wood or foam), dry patches (white or chalky areas that indicate the base needs wax urgently) and delamination (bubbling or separation between layers). Any core shot needs repair before riding. Dry patches need hot wax. Delamination needs workshop assessment.
Edge check: run your fingernail lightly along the edge. Rust, burrs or rough patches indicate the edges need attention. A sharp edge will catch your nail cleanly. A dull or damaged edge will feel rough or uneven. If your edges feel rough or you can see rust, an edge tune before the season is not optional — Victorian morning conditions on firm snow will expose dull edges immediately.
Hot wax: if you haven't waxed since last season, wax before you ride. A board that's been sitting dry for months needs hot wax — not rub-on, not a quick spray. Hot wax penetrates the base material and lasts. Bring it to Frosty in our workshop or do it yourself with a proper iron at the correct temperature for the wax type.
Boots
Liner inspection: pull the liners out and check for compression damage — areas that have packed flat and won't spring back. A liner that's packed out completely won't hold your foot properly regardless of lacing tightness. If your liners are more than three seasons old and noticeably flattened, new liners or new boots.
Lace and BOA check: check laces for fraying or weak points. Check BOA wires for kinks or fraying. Check BOA dials for smooth operation. A BOA failure on the mountain is not something you want to troubleshoot in ski boots in the cold. If anything looks marginal, replace it now. We stock BOA repair kits and replacement laces.
Heat mould if you haven't: if you bought new boots this season or your existing boots haven't been moulded, bring them in. Heat moulding takes twenty minutes and makes a noticeable difference to comfort and performance from the first run.
Bindings
Hardware check: binding screws work loose over a season of riding and vibration. Remove each binding and check that all mounting screws are tight — not overtightened, just firmly seated. Loose mounting screws create a dead, unresponsive feel between your foot and the board.
Strap and ratchet inspection: flex the straps and check for cracking or brittleness, particularly at the ratchet connection points. Check that ratchets click cleanly through every tooth. A strap that cracks or a ratchet that skips mid-run on your first day is easily prevented by a two-minute check now.
Highback alignment: check that your highbacks are aligned with your boot heel. Misaligned highbacks affect how efficiently your heel-side lean transfers into the board. Takes thirty seconds to check, takes five minutes to adjust if needed.
Outerwear
DWR restoration: if your jacket's waterproofing felt compromised last season — water soaking in rather than beading — the DWR coating has worn off. A warm tumble dry (without fabric softener) reactivates most DWR treatments. For jackets that have had multiple seasons of hard use, a Nikwax or Grangers DWR spray restores the coating more thoroughly. Do this before the first trip, not after you've had a wet day and wondered why your jacket felt cold.
Seam and zip check: check critical seams (shoulders, underarms, cuffs) for any separation or wear in the tape. Check that all zips run smoothly and fully — a zip that sticks at minus fifteen on a chairlift is a significant annoyance. Zip lubricant on stiff zippers before the season.
Goggles
Lens inspection: check for scratches, delamination (bubbling between lens layers) or damaged anti-fog coating. A scratched lens is uncomfortable to ride in and reduces low-light performance significantly. If the lens is scratched, replace it rather than ride a full season squinting through the damage.
Foam seal check: the foam seal around the goggle frame creates the seal against your face and prevents cold air ingress. Compressed or damaged foam seal means cold air getting in and fogging. Most brands sell replacement foam kits.
What to Drop Into Our Workshop
If you want us to handle the board side: hot wax, edge tune, base inspection and repair if needed — drop it in at 435A Bridge Road, Richmond. Call ahead if you want a specific turnaround time. May and June get busy as the season approaches — earlier is better.
Phone: 03 9421 2293
Email: info@twelveboardstore.com.au
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